In 1985 at the Greenbrier, our Sous Chefs wore shirts and ties under their chef’s jackets. They were adorned with black pants, cloth-starched hats, and no aprons, creating a visual separation between our union members and salaried leadership. This may have been a tradition stemming from the resort’s famed Food Director, Herman Rusch, who wore a coat and tie to the office, replacing one jacket with another.
Two years later, the resort hired a new Executive Chef, Hartmut Handke. He arrived in a crisp chef’s jacket, checkered pants, neckerchief, apron, and no hat. What stood out most was that he wore an apron, signaling an active, hands-on approach to culinary education that quickly became our new normal. Sous Chefs soon followed his lead, adding hats while cooking alongside the staff.
There are several professions where uniforms are synonymous: military, fire, police, doctors, and at one time, the classic mailman. These uniforms have been cherished for as long as the professions have existed. However, we now question whether they are still important to the positive perception of these professions, given that dress codes in society have become such a personal choice.
My partners and I often discuss changing habits or times, challenging ourselves with, “Are we just getting old?” We recognize that we might not always be right and that it’s possible to get stuck in the past, outdated, or, conversely, to be proud of change.
In my desire to inspire, influence, and inspect, I recognize that these attributes contribute to success. Here are some thoughts to ponder in my old versus relevant mindset:
Culinary Conferences: Bathrooms, Bars and Baristas
The audience at chef conferences and conventions is impressive, a sea of white chef coats that can seem almost cult-like, preaching the pride and joy of our profession. However, there’s a downside: bathroom breaks, food spills, cocktail parties, and those who wander off into the night. Escoffier wore a coat and tie to the office so he could frequent dining establishments after work, out of uniform. There’s nothing worse for any customer than to see staff in full uniform using the establishment’s bathroom.
At our Ritz Carlton Chefs Conference, it looked like a Milan fashion show, with global chefs strolling in tailored suits. We dressed as the customers of this luxury brand would expect in public spaces, knowing the Executive Chef’s reach extends beyond the kitchen walls.
Jacket Styles: Sleeves, Neckline, Buttons, Cloth
The greatest professional gift I received was my first Bragard Grand Chef jacket. As an American boy, I had arrived in the then-European craft, wearing it only on Sundays as a sign of how special it was. Over the years, the style changed in sleeve length, neckline, and buttons, modernizing slightly while remaining steeped in tradition. The Egyptian cotton was soft on the skin and durable for industry use, pressed to perfection with just the right amount of cotton thread count to withstand the heat of the laundry, producing a beautiful sheen. The jacket and hat are the most identifiable pieces of our industry—ones to be respected and cherished.
Food Safety: Hats, Aprons, Shoes, Color, Provider
Marriott issued their chefs white shoes, hats, jackets, and pants in the early years. Perhaps they looked more like hospitals than hospitality, but it defined their cleanliness image. How would you feel if the surgeon didn’t have a skull cap before commencing an operation? Aprons were designed for safety first, so if a chef spilled something, they could quickly remove this extra layer. Shoes are the next level of protection, and hats prevent potential foreign objects from contaminating the food. All our kitchens provided culinary uniforms through laundries, ensuring clean, fresh materials for our cooks. Some European cooks polished their chef’s shoes each night as part of their apprenticeship—a servant role more than a partnership but certainly drove home the chef’s commitment to lead by example.
What about suits? Is it pressed, or is it a dated concept today?
My first dining experience at age twenty required a jacket and tie. Today, many Michelin-starred experiences don’t require a dress code. This raises an important question: “Does a professional chef need a suit outside of their wedding day?” When hosting chef interviews today, my partner asks candidates, “Is your suit pressed for tomorrow’s interview?” Many arrive in new suits. Our business is deeply rooted in the private club world, where dress codes and traditions remain important. She is in her early forties, and in some cases, this formal dress code is generationally biased. It’s best to be overdressed in front of the membership committee that is interviewing you as their potential new chef, keeping in mind the simple reminder: “Would mom be proud of how I look?”
Auguste Escoffier, Our Example, Students of Our Profession
Escoffier was the first celebrity chef, understanding that his image would be judged long before he spoke. Today’s social media doesn’t allow for captions with all pictures. Great chefs like Anton Mosimann were in their bow ties 24/7. Respect for our profession is an individual choice, as is style. My mentor in this area of the profession was the President of the CIA, Mr. Metz. He dressed as one would expect of him, not based on where he had been. While he was comfortable with both jackets, he understood his brand and reach within our profession.
Who knew a simple uniform could signal so many things about our profession and the professionals who choose to wear it?
Club + Resort Chef – September 2024
Lawrence T. McFadden, CMC, ECM is a food and beverage training consultant and search executive with KOPPLIN KUEBLER & WALLACE, a consulting firm providing executive search, strategic planning and data analysis services to the private club and hospitality industries.